Why Small Batch Production Costs So Much (And Why I’m Changing Things)
The idea of a small cult clothing brand making everything in tiny, exclusive runs? It’s romantic. It’s exciting. And to be honest, it’s been my dream for the past 18 years.
But if you don’t work in the fashion industry, you might not realise what that dream looks like in practice. So let me give you a peek behind the curtain—and explain why small batch production costs what it does (and why I’m making some changes).
Why small batch is expensive (for everyone)
When you produce clothing ethically, your manufacturing partners usually have minimums—the lowest quantity they can make while still covering their costs and paying their workers fairly.
At my Melbourne-based manufacturer, Colliers, the minimum is 90 pieces per style. That’s just the cut and sew part—not including fabric printing, pattern making, grading, pressing & folding or fabric sourcing.
Right now, I don’t have the customer reach to produce 90 of every style. So we’ve come to an agreement: for styles where I can only make 40–50, I pay a 20% surcharge on the make cost.
I’m incredibly grateful I can produce such small runs—it’s one of the things that makes my brand special. But that extra 20% really adds up when it comes to retail pricing.
Let’s talk numbers
Here’s how fashion pricing typically works:
Take your cost price of the garment.
Multiply it by 2.2 → this gives your wholesale price.
Multiply that by 2.2 again → this gives your retail price.
This structure allows both the brand and the retailer to make a sustainable income.
So, let’s say a garment costs me $30 to make. Add the 20% surcharge for small batch production—now it’s $36. After two rounds of markup, that extra $6 becomes nearly $30 more for you at the register.
Small changes snowball fast.
The pricing model I’ve used until now
Until recently, I’ve skipped the wholesale part entirely. I’ve only sold directly to you, using a model where I aim to keep the cost price at 30% of the retail price. That leftover 70% then goes to cover:
GST & taxes
Website, subscriptions, and packaging
Pattern making & sampling fabrics
Photo shoots and models
Marketing
Paying myself
This has mostly worked. I’ve paid myself enough to live—but with no buffer.
If fabric costs go up? Stress.If manufacturing is delayed? Stress.If I need to hire help? Stress.If I want to order fabric in advance for a collection? Forget it.
I’ve been stuck in this cycle since 2019—getting by, but never quite ahead. Always juggling. Always holding my breath.
So what’s changing?
I’ve finally decided: enough is enough. It’s time to make some moves that give me a chance to grow, breathe, and do this work more sustainably.
One of those moves? Opening up to wholesale.
This will allow me to hit that 90-piece minimum more regularly—which means I can ditch the 20% surcharge. And down the track, if a particular style really takes off, it could give me the opportunity to ethically manufacture it offshore, which would allow me to pass savings back to you.
I know some of you love the small-batch model—and I still do too. But I also know that staying in this holding pattern isn't sustainable. Not for me, not for my business, and ultimately, not for the work I want to keep doing.
Prices will be going up on July 9th, so if you've been eyeing a piece now is a great time to buy a piece before they increase.
Thanks for being on the journey with me.
— ClareFounder, Slow Fashion Australia
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